Engine rebuild and reconditioning services
At Peninsula Sports Cars, rebuilding an engine isn’t just about replacing a few worn parts — it’s about restoring performance, reliability, and the soul of the vehicle. Drawing on the expertise, knowledge & history of Mike Dyer Performance Engines our workshop has all the equipment, tools and expertise to deliver the same exacting standards as Mike did for so many years.
POWER RESTORED, CHARACTER PRESERVED – ENGINE REBUILDS FOR ENTHUSIASTS
Decades of hands-on experience in classic engine restoration and performance tuning
- Close to 60 years of Mike Dyer Performance Engines experience to draw on
- Full engine removal and rebuild services
- Vehicle pick up and transportation options
- Australian Ford & Holden 6 and 8 cylinder engine rebuilds
- Classic British, American & European vehicle engine rebuilds
- Extensive array of complimentary vehicle restoration & servicing available
Our rebuild process involves completely disassembling your engine, cleaning and inspecting every component, and then restoring or replacing parts to factory or upgraded specifications. From cylinder head servicing and valve guide replacement, to cylinder block honing and head decking — every job is done with precision.
We are an engine building workshop in Sydney that caters to car enthusiasts who choose to rebuild rather than replace because it preserves the originality of the vehicle and can offer better long-term value, especially for rare, classic or restoration projects.
“Darren and his team are 2nd to none with their knowledge, accurate diagnosis and passion for those that love their classic cars. The icing on the cake is great, friendly service with repairs done in a timely manner. Nothing is too much trouble and if they can't fix it then nobody can! I have used them many times and highly recommend you pay them a visit”
Classic car engine rebuild or reconditioning
We specialise in pushrod engines and inline-six power plants from the likes of MG, Triumph, Jaguar, Mini, Austin-Healey, Sunbeam, Holden and Ford — including the iconic 138, 186, 202, 253, 308, 250 Crossflow, and more. If your classic isn’t running like it should or you’re chasing period-correct performance then Peninsula Sports Cars has the expertise and workshop capability to bring it back to life.
Cylinder head
servicing
ULP head
upgrade
Cylinder block
honing
Head
decking
Valve
guides
Leak down
testing
Head flow
testing
Flywheel
machining
Our relationship with Mike Dyer, of Mike Dyer Performance Engines
Mike Dyer is a bit of a legend when it comes to engine building for race and road cars, and when I first bought Peninsula Sports Car Services I didn’t realise the path that would take us down. Mike’s workshop was next door, an absolute treasure trove of Australian motorsport memorabilia and a bit of a time capsule.
We started using Mike’s services for engine work and quickly built a good working relationship. When Mike decided it was time to close the toolkit, he approached me to buy his equipment and machinery, but I had a better idea.
To simply let Mike’s decades of engine building experience retire with him would have been such a shame. I asked Mike if he’d be willing to stay on and train some of our team in the art of engine building, so his legacy could be honoured and partly preserved.
Thankfully he agreed, and the rest as they say is history. We now have some of our ‘young blokes’ approaching engine building in the same tried and tested way that made Mike so successful for close to 60 years.
…and we are happy to report that Mike is now spending his days with his family, mowing the lean, cleaning the pool and all the other stuff retirees get up to.
When should an engine be rebuilt or reconditioned?
At Peninsula Sports Cars, we specialise in diagnosing engine wear and performance issues across a wide range of classic and performance vehicles.
If you’re experiencing loss of power, excessive oil consumption, smoke, or irregular engine noise, our team can carry out detailed inspections and testing — including compression and leak-down tests — to determine whether a full engine rebuild or reconditioning is necessary.
With decades of experience in working with Holden, Ford, and classic British marques, we provide honest, expert advice to help you make an informed decision about the next steps for your engine.
Engine types & brands we can rebuild or recondition
We specialise in pushrod engines and inline-six power plants from the likes of MG, Triumph, Jaguar, Mini, Austin-Healey, Sunbeam, Holden and Ford — including the iconic 138, 186, 202, 253, 308, 250 Crossflow, and more.
If your classic isn’t running like it should or you’re chasing period-correct performance then Peninsula Sports Cars has the expertise and workshop capability to bring it back to life.
Our workshop can either rebuild, replace or recondition pushrod engines from all the classic Australian, British, U.S. and European vehicle makes and models.
Holden 6’s and V8’s up to last of the Aussie 5 litres
Ford 6’s and V8’s up to Windsor engines
British sports and classic cars – MG, Triumph, Jag, Sunbeam, Austin Healey, Mini , Morgan, British Leyland
Engine replacements for classic cars
We work extensively with pushrod engines and inline-six power plants from the likes of MG, Triumph, Jaguar, Mini, Austin-Healey, Sunbeam, Holden and Ford — including the iconic 138, 186, 202, 253, 308, 250 Crossflow, and more.
We can remove your old engine and either recondition it or replace it completely with the same or an upgraded engine.
A sample of our engine replacement work
Peninsula Sports Cars’ secret passion is helping owners of sports cars or classic cars it makes their eyes light up when they see you are a fellow car enthusiast.
We’ve worked on hundreds of different engines, vehicles and for different circumstances over the years.
Here is a sample of some of our work
Engine models and sizes we can rebuild or condition
As we mentioned previously we work extensively with pushrod engines and inline-six power plants from the likes of MG, Triumph, Jaguar, Mini, Austin-Healey, Sunbeam, Holden and Ford. The table below is an example of the engines we can work on.
- 132 cu in (2.15L) Grey Motor
Used in: 48-215 (FX), FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (1948–1962)
- 132 cu in (2.15L) Grey Motor
- 138 cu in (2.26L) Red Motor
Early EH models (1963–1965)
- 138 cu in (2.26L) Red Motor
- 149 cu in (2.44L) Red Motor
EH, HD, HR (1963–1968)
- 149 cu in (2.44L) Red Motor
- 161 cu in (2.64L) Red Motor
HD, HR, HK, HT (1965–1969)
- 161 cu in (2.64L) Red Motor
- 173 cu in (2.85L) Red Motor
HG, HQ, HJ, Torana LC/LJ (1970s)
- 173 cu in (2.85L) Red Motor
- 186 cu in (3.05L) Red Motor
HR, HK, HT, HG, LC Torana (1966–1971)
- 186 cu in (3.05L) Red Motor
- 202 cu in (3.3L) Red Motor
HQ, HJ, HX, HZ, LH/LX Torana (1971–1980)
- 202 cu in (3.3L) Red Motor
- 173 cu in (2.85L) Blue Motor
VB/VH Commodore, WB Commercials (1980–1984)
- 173 cu in (2.85L) Blue Motor
- 202 cu in (3.3L) Blue Motor
VB/VH Commodore, WB Utes & Vans (1980–1984)
- 202 cu in (3.3L) Blue Motor
- 202 cu in (3.3L) Black Motor – Carburetted version
VK Commodore base models (1984–1985)
- 202 cu in (3.3L) Black Motor – Carburetted version
- 289 cu in (4.7L) Windsor V8
Imported from the U.S., assembled in Australia
Used in: XR Falcon GT (1967), some Fairlanes
Carburetted
- 289 cu in (4.7L) Windsor V8
- 302 cu in (4.9L) Windsor V8
Imported/assembled in Australia
Used in: XT–XY Falcons, ZC–ZD Fairlanes
Carburetted
- 302 cu in (4.9L) Windsor V8
- 351 cu in (5.8L) Windsor V8
Imported/assembled, limited local build
Used in: XW–XY Falcon GT, some Fairlanes
Carburetted
- 351 cu in (5.8L) Windsor V8
- 302 cu in (4.9L) Cleveland V8
Locally built from early 1970s onwards
Used in: XA–XC Falcon, ZF–ZJ Fairlane
Carburetted
- 302 cu in (4.9L) Cleveland V8
- 351 cu in (5.8L) Cleveland V8
Locally built and widely used
Used in: XA–XE Falcon, Landau, ZF–ZK Fairlane, LTD
Carburetted
Also used in XB/XC Falcon GTs and Cobra
- 351 cu in (5.8L) Cleveland V8
- 351 cu in (5.8L) “Australian-spec” V8
Modified Cleveland-based block with some local spec changes
Carburetted only
Used in: XE ESP Falcon, last of the Aussie big V8s before EFI era
- 351 cu in (5.8L) “Australian-spec” V8
- 144 cu in (2.4L) Inline-6
Introduced: XK Falcon (1960)
Carburetted only
Basic, entry-level engine for early Falcons 170 cu in (2.8L) Inline-6
Used in: XL–XP Falcon (1962–1966)
Carburetted
Slightly more power and torque than the 144200 cu in (3.3L) Inline-6 (Pre-Crossflow)
Introduced: XP Falcon (1965)
Used up to early XA Falcon
Carburetted
Strong performer in compact Falcons and Cortinas221 cu in (3.6L) Inline-6 (Pre-Crossflow)
Used in: XR–XY Falcon
Carburetted
More torque, aimed at full-size Falcon sedans and wagons250 cu in (4.1L) Inline-6 (Pre-Crossflow)
Introduced: XY Falcon
Carburetted
Used extensively across Falcons, Fairlanes, and Cortinas (1970s)250 cu in (4.1L) Crossflow (Alloy Head)
Introduced: XC Falcon (1976)
Cast iron block, aluminium crossflow head
Carburetted in XC, XD, XE (early)
Notable upgrade in breathing and performance over pre-crossflow
Still non-EFI until late XE models
- 144 cu in (2.4L) Inline-6
- BMC A-Series 848cc–1275cc Inline-4
Used in: MG Midget, MG 1100/1300
Also shared with Mini
- BMC A-Series 848cc–1275cc Inline-4
- BMC B-Series 1.5L–1.8L Inline-4
Used in: MGA, MGB
Workhorse engine across many BMC models
- BMC B-Series 1.5L–1.8L Inline-4
- Standard SC/SC2 948cc–1296cc Inline-4
Used in: Spitfire, Herald
- Standard SC/SC2 948cc–1296cc Inline-4
- Triumph 1493cc Inline-4
Used in: Spitfire 1500, Dolomite 1500
- Triumph 1493cc Inline-4
- Triumph 2.0L Inline-6
Used in: GT6, Vitesse
Short version of the larger 2.5L straight-six
- Triumph 2.0L Inline-6
- Triumph 2.5L Inline-6
• Used in: TR5, TR6, 2500 saloons
- Triumph 2.5L Inline-6
- Jaguar XK Inline-6 (3.4L / 3.8L / 4.2L)
Used in: XK120–XK150, E-Type, Mark 1–2, XJ6
Legendary twin-cam engine
- Jaguar XK Inline-6 (3.4L / 3.8L / 4.2L)
- Jaguar V12 (5.3L)
Used in: E-Type V12, XJ12, XJS
Smooth but complex
- Jaguar V12 (5.3L)
- Rootes 1494cc / 1725cc Inline-4
Used in: Sunbeam Alpine
Based on Hillman engines
- Rootes 1494cc / 1725cc Inline-4
- Ford 260/289 cu in V8 (Windsor)
• Used in: Sunbeam Tiger
• U.S.-sourced engine stuffed into a British body
- Ford 260/289 cu in V8 (Windsor)
- Austin A-Series 948cc / 1098cc / 1275cc
Used in: Sprite Mk I–IV (shared with MG Midget)
- Austin A-Series 948cc / 1098cc / 1275cc
- Austin C-Series 2.6L / 2.9L Inline-6
Used in: Austin-Healey 100-6, 3000
- Austin C-Series 2.6L / 2.9L Inline-6
- BMC A-Series 848cc–1275cc Inline-4
Used in: Mini, Cooper, Clubman
Ubiquitous and modifiable
- BMC A-Series 848cc–1275cc Inline-4
- Ford Kent Crossflow 1600cc Inline-4
• Used in: Morgan 4/4
- Ford Kent Crossflow 1600cc Inline-4
- Triumph 2.0L Inline-4 and Inline-6
Used in: Morgan Plus 4
- Triumph 2.0L Inline-4 and Inline-6
- Rover 3.5L V8
Used in: Morgan Plus 8
Lightweight alloy V8 originally from Buick
- Rover 3.5L V8
- A-Series (848cc–1275cc)
Used in Mini, MG, Morris, Austin models
- A-Series (848cc–1275cc)
- B-Series (1.5L–1.8L)
Used in MGB, Morris Oxford, etc.
- B-Series (1.5L–1.8L)
- O-Series (1.7L–2.0L)
Later used in Marinas, Princess, Ital
- O-Series (1.7L–2.0L)
- Rover 3.5L V8 (Buick-derived)
Used in: MGB GT V8, Range Rover, Rover P6, Morgan
- Rover 3.5L V8 (Buick-derived)
What engine components can we recondition?
The most common engine components that we are able to recondition include
Pistons or piston rings
• Worn rings cause blow-by, oil burning, and compression loss
• Pistons may be replaced if damaged or undersized after cylinder honing
Main or rod bearings
• Replace due to wear on crankshaft journals and connecting rods
• Critical for engine longevity and oil pressure
Gaskets and seals
• Full gasket kits used (head gasket, intake, exhaust, sump, rocker cover, etc.)
• Old gaskets harden and fail, leading to oil and coolant leaks
Timing components
• Timing chain or gears (and tensioners where applicable)
• Common source of rattle, poor timing, and engine knock in old engines
Camshaft and lifters for most types of pushrod engines
• Often show wear in classic pushrod motors
• New lifters and sometimes camshaft regrinds or replacements needed
Valve guides and seats
• Replace or machine due to excessive valve play and oil burning
• Often upgraded to hardened seats for unleaded fuel compatibility
Cylinder heads
• Decked to ensure flat sealing surface
• Pressure tested for cracks
• Valve regrind and seal replacement standard
Crankshafts
• Machined (ground or polished) or replaced if out of spec
• Checked for cracks and oil gallery cleanliness
Oil pumps
• Either replaced or rebuilt to maintain consistent oil pressure
Water pumps & thermostat
• Often replaced as preventative maintenance during rebuild
Welch (Core) Plugs
• Frequently corroded in old engines — replaced during teardown
Fuel and Coolant Hoses
• Cracked or brittle with age — usually replaced for safety
How do you know if your engine needs to be rebuilt?
Your engine may need to be rebuilt if you start to experience some of these common issues
Low compression across one or more cylinders
• Caused by worn piston rings, valve issues, or head gasket leaks
• Leads to poor performance and rough running
Blue smoke from the exhaust
• Burning oil due to worn valve guides or piston rings
• Common in older Holden red/blue/black motors and british a/b-series engines
Persistent engine knock or bottom-end rattle
• Worn crankshaft bearings (main or rod)
• Typically found in high-mileage Holden 202s, Ford 250 crossflows, and Triumph straight-sixes
Excessive oil consumption
• Engine regularly needs topping up
• Oil leaks and burning often linked to tired valve seals and worn internals
Milky oil or coolant contamination
• Blown head gasket or cracked head/block
• Common in overheated Holden and British iron-block motors
Overheating under load or at idle
• Can be a sign of cracked head, clogged coolant passages, or warped head deck
• Especially relevant for Jaguar SK straight-sixes and Austin-healey inline-sixes
Hard starting or rough idle (even when tuned)
• Caused by vacuum leaks, low compression, or valve train wear
• Seen in Minis and Mgs with tired a-series motors
Backfiring, misfiring or lack of power
• Ignition and timing issues due to cam wear, valve issues, or worn lifters
• Especially notable in Holden 308s and Ford cleveland v8s
Heavy carbon deposits on plugs or wet plugs
• Oil fouling from worn rings or valve seals
• Indicates incomplete combustion and oil intrusion
Visible external oil leaks from head, sump, or timing cover
• Hardened gaskets and worn seals
• Common with older pushrod engines and long-storage classics
Noisy valvetrain or ticking under load
• indicates worn rockers, lifters or cam lobes
• Particularly prevalent in Holden 253/308 and triumph ohv engines
Loss of oil pressure at idle
• Worn bearings or tired oil pump
• Especially risky for Rover v8s and older inline-sixes
